In this week’s Ask Nathan:
- Overlanding done easy?
- Should I replace my old Camry?
The first question comes from a fan looking to start overlanding, but he’s frustrated by high prices.
Q (Via Facebook): RE: I was seriously thinking about over landing, but the real thing, not the fake thing.
Hi Nathan, it’s Sherman here. Again and again I know!
You’ve answered other questions that I’ve had in the past, but I’m kind of frustrated about something that I was kind of hoping you could help me with it. I was seriously thinking about over landing, but the real thing, not the fake thing. What I mean is that I wanna actually go off-road and find great places to camp.
But I’m not a rich man. I work at a front desk for a private school, and I make slightly more than an average school teacher. So that’s not a lot of money, but it’s enough for me to have an extra vehicle that I can use as an overlander. And I really want to camp, like off the grid and everything. So I wanted to get something that has all the facilities I would need to camp and stay out of the elements and that includes a toilet. Once you get to that level, it gets really expensive.
Some of the vehicles you guys have covered have cost up to $1 million or more. That’s just insane!!! So I was wondering, what do you think about somebody who has a budget of around $30,000 but wants to have a vehicle that can go off-road and has everything I need. Also, I don’t want to tow a trailer. I once tried to do that off-road and it’s a nightmare. I know you guys have done it before and I know it’s hard for you too. Anyway, thanks for all your content, you guys are the best!
– Sherman
A: Hi Sherman!
That’s an outstanding question, and your frustration is completely justified. Some of the overlanding rigs we cover cost enough to make you wonder whether the Four Seasons would be the responsible choice over a Best Western. Fortunately, you can get out there for considerably less. You’ll probably be shopping used, and your accommodations may involve fewer marble countertops.
For those reading this without context: I consider overlanding to be off-road, off-grid camping where you’re self-reliant in rugged terrain. No hookups, no city lights, and no counting on a cell signal to solve your problems. You get the picture.
You can also participate on just about any budget. If you ride a scooter into the middle of nowhere with a tent and enough provisions to take care of yourself, that qualifies in my book.
First, bigger isn’t necessarily better off-road. Those massive expedition vehicles have their place, but three axles and a small apartment don’t automatically make something a trail machine. Weight, width, height and turning radius all matter. A rig that’s brilliant crossing open terrain can become a very expensive cork on a narrow forest road. For affordable overlanding, I’d prioritize manageable size, mechanical condition and enough capability for the places you actually intend to visit.
Here’s a real example: A friend of mine is building an overlander from a 2020 Chevrolet Colorado diesel 4×4. It isn’t a ZR2, and that’s an important distinction. I love the ZR2. The ZR2’s specialized hardware is excellent, but you don’t necessarily need it for exploring dirt roads, finding remote campsites and disappearing from your inbox.
He bought his Colorado here in California for $16,500 with approximately 75,000 miles on it. ‘Twas a bit worn outside, but he said minor dents and scratches are no biggie. That’s one purchase, rather than a promise that every local dealership has a stack of them out back. Your mileage, and your bargaining skills, may vary.
I like the diesel for this application because its efficiency can be useful on longer trips. However, service history matters more than the badge, and a used diesel deserves a proper inspection. You want money left for adventures, rather than a close personal relationship with the service department.
His plan includes a modest lift, selected suspension improvements and underbody protection. He’s also considering a THAirCamper inflatable camper, quoted at roughly $3,000, plus a compact cooking setup. Bathroom facilities consist of a portable toilet and a separate privacy tent. No heated marble floors, but you still get a room with a view.
Choose the view carefully.
As a serious hiker and climber, he wants a setup that supports extended stays away from developed campgrounds. Solar power, sensible gear storage and an air system are part of the plan. Water, food, fuel and waste capacity will ultimately determine how long he can stay out. Sunshine is useful, but you can’t drink a solar panel.
His target for the truck and completed build is approximately $25,000. With a $16,500 purchase price, that leaves about $8,500 for equipment, upgrades and any other costs he needs to cover. He believes he can make it work, although I’d keep a repair reserve before ordering another shiny accessory.
That’s the point: You don’t need an expedition mansion to go camping somewhere interesting. Start with a sound vehicle, equip it for your actual needs and build gradually.
The mountain doesn’t care what your camper cost. Neither does the portable toilet.
— N
The last question comes from an old Toyota Camry owner, who’s debating fixing it up vs. buying something newer.
Q (Via Facebook): RE: Hi there Nathan. I have a 1995 Toyota Camry with a 2.2 L four-cylinder engine and the manual transmission
Hi there Nathan. I have a 1995 Toyota Camry with a 2.2 L four-cylinder engine and the manual transmission. It was my father‘s and he drove it 150,000 miles. He replaced the clutch, and worked on the brakes. We also put on new tires. Other than that, it is a trusted daily driver. But it’s kind of getting old and I’m wondering if I should finally replace it or drive it forever?
I’m not a car guy, I’m not someone who needs to have the newest and the greatest. I just want something reliable that’ll get me back-and-forth to work. It gets really good gas mileage and it’s comfortable.
Should I put a couple thousand dollars into this car or should I take the step and buy something newer?
– S
A: That’s a great question, and you’ve got a fantastic car.
Toyota’s 2.2-liter 5S-FE four-cylinder has a strong reputation for longevity. There are examples with more than 300,000 miles on them, although maintenance and condition matter considerably more than automotive folklore. Your father taking care of this one is a big point in its favor. I wouldn’t rush to replace it simply because it remembers a time before touchscreens took over the dashboard.
Older cars develop issues, but an annoying symptom doesn’t necessarily mean the engine is preparing its farewell speech. Rough idling or stalling could involve the idle-air control system, a coolant-temperature sensor or a vacuum leak. Misfires might come from aging ignition components, including plugs, wires or, where fitted, the distributor cap. Those are possibilities to diagnose, rather than a shopping list. Throwing parts at a car gets expensive, and your mechanic already has enough help paying for his boat.
Worn engine mounts can make a healthy engine feel considerably rougher than it is. Aging gaskets and seals can also cause leaks without signaling the end of civilization. Sometimes, a durable old car simply outlives the less glamorous components attached to it.
My advice is to have a trusted mechanic inspect the whole vehicle, including its cooling system, timing-belt service history, brakes, tires and any structural rust. Get an estimate, then weigh that against the cost of replacement. A few repairs may make excellent financial sense if the rest of the car is sound.
You already know this car’s history, which is something the mystery machine on a used-car lot can’t necessarily offer. Keep up with maintenance, address problems early, and you may have plenty of useful miles ahead.
Every penny counts these days. If your Toyota still has life in it, I’d rather spend a little keeping it happy than acquire a monthly payment with Bluetooth.
— N
